Readers Write
This was an absolutely amazing article! I am in the process of trying to create an "expensive kitchen look" with standard options. I have built and remodeled many kitchens in the past, but with today's financial considerations, I have to be much more attentive to selective cost-saving choices and decisions. I am a BIG fan of: large, deep, single bowl composite sinks, standard refrigerators, slide-in range/ovens and standard sizing for cabinetry; if at all possible. I think that the money spent for 15" rather than the usual 12" deep upper cabinets is often worth it as well as a 30" deep (rather than the usual 24") counter-top. Both of these choices add a lot of "bang for your buck" and make an enormous difference in the day-to-day functionality of the kitchen. I am only sorry that I am in Arizona rather than in Nebraska!!!! Those people are really fortunate that you are there and still offering people the personal touch that is sorely lacking in today's marketplace.

Linda S.

Off the Wall Kitchens:
Living Without Upper Cabinets
J. M. Edgar, MA, CMC, CRC
Achieving a workable balance between competing requirements in a kitchen is a large part of what kitchen designers do. For example, all good kitchens provide abundant natural light and ample convenient storage. A lot of the most useful storage is in cabinets attached to the walls of the kitchen. This is, of course Click to Enlarge Click to Enlarge

Large kitchen windows produce a light, airy kitchen but eliminate space for wall cabinets. precisely where the windows go. So, if a kitchen has a lot of wall cabinets, it cannot have many windows. If it has many windows, it has to do without a lot of convenient wall storage.

Wall cabinets are unquestionably useful storage, but with drawbacks. A major disadvantage is that wall cabinets make a kitchen seem smaller by closing in the space at eye level — which is where we subconsciously judge how large the space around us is. The typical rank of identical cabinets marching along the wall of a kitchen with the precise alignment of a Marine Corps drill team creates what is in effect walls within the walls of the kitchen, really closing the space in.

Small kitchens in particular can greatly benefit from the perception of a larger room that results from no wall cabinets. But smaller kitchens are also almost always desperate for more storage. The smaller the kitchen, the more acute the storage need, and the stronger the temptation to use at least some wall cabinets to meet the need.

So, which way to go. No wall cabinets, lots of windows for a more open, lighter, airier kitchen. Wall cabinets, fewer windows for more storage but a room that seems smaller and more closed in. Hummmm!

The ideal solution, of course, is a kitchen that combines both: plenty of convenient storage while eliminating most if not all wall cabinets for more light and openness. How to do this is, of course, the problem, but a solvable problem using creative design and the innovative storage solutions that have become available in recent years.

Photo: Unknown. This photo of a kitchen designed by a talented custom cabinetmaker appeared on the Woodweb in 2005. If this is your work, please contact us. We would like to give credit where credit is due. Click to enlarge.
Not our kitchen. We wish it was. This custom 30" deep base cabinet creates more countertop space, allows 16"-deep rather than the standard 12" wall cabinets, and has room for an appliance garage or two with enough room in front of the garage be useful for kitchen tasks. Using Deeper Base Cabinets
Most kitchen base cabinets are 24" deep from front to back. This is the standard adopted by the cabinet industry not because it is necessarily the best depth but because two 24" panels can be ripped from a standard 4'x8' plywood sheet. This minimizes waste — always a big mass production consideration.

But deeper cabinets are possible and very desirable when storage is at a premium.

We are not big believers in standard cabinet dimensions. Standard dimensions are a compromise that fits almost no one. Very few people are exactly average. They are intended to make manufacturing easier, not kitchens better. We prefer instead to adopt sizes that fit the user and optimize the use of space in the kitchen and fit the people using the kitchen (See: Body Friendly Design: Kitchen Ergonomics and Mise-en-Place: What We Can Learn About Kitchen Design from Commercial Kitchens ). Most kitchen's have enough space for at least one bank of deeper cabinets — up to 30" deep, which is the practical limit. Much deeper and many people cannot comfortably reach the back of the countertop. We have gone as deep as 36", however, where appropriate.

Deeper base cabinets often permit kitchens to work better for several reasons. Deep Kitchen Cabinets Diagram A 30" deep base cabinet paired with a 16" upper cabinet provides 50% more working depth in front of an appliance garage and 25% more overall storage capacity.

• Drawers can be made deeper — up to 25% deeper in a 30" deep cabinet. This provides for a lot of good accessible storage otherwise not available. In an average-size kitchen, this is equivalent to three added base cabinets.

• Appliance garages can be added to countertops and still leave useful working countertop depth. With a typical 24" cabinet (which usually has a 25" deep countertop), a 12" deep appliance garage leaves only 13" of working countertop in front of it. With a 30" deep cabinet, 19" of countertop remains, and this is a workable surface depth for food preparation.

• Similarly, if you are one of the people who likes to keep frequently accessed items at the back of the countertop, a deeper countertop preserves a good size workspace in front while allowing plants, appliances and storage to occupy the back. We have even been known to install a shelf on top of the backsplash for even more very handy storage right on the counter. This can be overdone, however.

• Where upper cabinets are used, a deeper base cabinet allows the installation of a deeper wall cabinet. A 24" deep base cabinet allows at most a 13" deep wall cabinet (12" is the factory standard, however). A deeper wall cabinet gets in the way. But a 30" deep base cabinet can accommodate an 18" wall cabinet above it (Although a 16" deep cabinet is usually the practical limit. Any deeper and things in the back start getting lost and pull-outs or a lazy susan become necessary to ensure good access). Using deeper cabinets means that about 25% fewer cabinets are necessary to realize the same amount of storage. Three 16" deep cabinets have the same storage capacity as four 12" deep cabinets.

Efficient Storage
The Iron Rules of Storage (1) Items should be stored where they are first used.
(2) Size storage to the things being stored.
(3) Store items in a single layer with no item hidden behind or beneath another.

Eliminating wall cabinets means that the remaining storage in the kitchen has to do double duty. Fortunately, storage efficiency has become a prime focus of kitchen cabinet and accessory providers over the past decade. Many innovations that greatly increase usable storage are widely available and increasingly used by kitchen design professionals to enhance the storage efficiency of kitchens.

These allow us to design storage that is convenient, efficient and conforms to the three iron rules of kitchen storage. These rules allow a lot of flexibility in terms of how storage is actually designed. And while no two kitchen
Kitchen pullout shelf A pullout shelf or tray is just a drawer without a drawer front. Use drawers instead for increased efficiency. designers ever seem to have exactly the same idea about designing storage, there are some basic approaches that are pretty much agreed to by everyone. Here are some of the typical methods we use to enhance the efficiency of kitchen storage so that wall cabinets can be reduced or even eliminated.

Drawers, Not Doors, In Lower Cabinets
In ancient times — about 20 years ago — all lower kitchen cabinets came outfitted with doors and shelves. A modest cabinet had a half-shelf, often adjustable, and a premium cabinet a full shelf. Shelves on lower cabinets do indeed store things, but not very well. Only the first 11" or so of the 22"-deep shelf is actually accessible. The back half may as well not be there. Anything on the back of the shelf is lost storage - you can get to it, but it requires a lot of stooping and bending; searching and moving things around, and maybe even a flashlight.

Kitchen Peg Drawer Dish storage is ordinarily in wall cabinets. Without upper cabinets it has to move to base drawers. Our reconfigurable dish drawers use a pegboard base and pegs to allow you to organize dish storage for maximum efficiency. Obviously the way to make the back of the shelf more convenient and useful storage is to allow the shelf to pull out so the back of the shelf is accessible. This was the birth of pullout shelves which quickly morphed into shallow pullout trays. If you want to get something from the back of the tray, pull it out, get the item, push it back. But first, you had to open the cabinet door (or doors), then close the door when you were done.

Almost immediately kitchen designers realized that a pullout tray is just a form of drawer. Drawers do not need doors in front to hide them, a drawer face will do that nicely and eliminate the bother of opening and closing doors just to get to the drawers within.

Today, just about every kitchen designer worth his or her credentials recommends drawers in place of door/shelf units on lower cabinets.

Drawer Organizers
Almost everything can be stored in drawers — shallow drawers for utensils, deep drawers for pots and pans. Plates can be set on edge or stacked in a properly organized drawer. The trick is to customize each drawer to the things being stored. This is where drawer organizers and dividers come into play. Photo: Rev-a-Shelf Pan and lid storage Pot, pan and lid organizers keep pans and their lids together in one place.

Kitchen utensil drawer Click to Enlarge

Our extra deep cabinet allows extra long drawers. This one, fitted with dividers inserted in a pegboard bottom, can easily be rearranged when storage needs change. The extra drawer depth allows for two rows of utensils front to back, compared to the normal one row, and every inch of it is immediately accessible thanks to full-extension hidden drawer supports. Drawer organizers used to be cut and fitted to the drawer, and once cut and fitted could not be changed. If you wanted to use the drawer to store something else, the existing dividers had to be scrapped and new ones installed. No longer.

Innovative drawer organizer systems using pegboard and movable dividers reduce reconfiguring drawer organization to a simple process of rearranging the dividers in the pegboard base to any new configuration you like. Once we fit and install the Melamine pegboard base, you can arrange the drawer as you prefer as many times as you need to any configuration your need. No further cutting and fitting is required. This makes drawer storage almost infinitely flexible, able to meet your changing storage needs. Tall dividers are available for deep drawers and short dividers for shallow drawers. We have yet to meet a drawer that this flexible system will not work in or a storage requirement it cannot meet.

Drawing: StarCraft Design Blind corner organizer Typical blind corner unit operation. To get to the second shelf unit (B), the first shelf unit has to be pulled out and rotated out of the way. Involved and expensive, these are our least favorite corner cabinet storage organizers. For pot, pan and lid storage, we prefer deep drawers with specialized organizers made just for this purpose. Several varieties are available from accessory suppliers, and we make our own. In general these organizers store pots and pans and their associated lids in the same place so that pans and lids stay together for quick retrieval.

Rev-a-Shelf makes one out of wire for up to 33" wide drawer openings that store pans and lids in the same drawer space. A deep drawer for pans with a shallow pullout for lids is also a common configuration. Many of these are after-market accessories intended for installation in existing cabinets to make them more efficient.

Making Effective Use of Corner Space
Photo: Rev-A-Shelf Lazy susan corner cabinet The most common corner cabinet storage solution is the two-tier lazy susan in wood, metal or plastic. One of the challenges of going without wall cabinets is to make use of every possible space in the kitchen that can be adapted to storage. The corner where two rows of cabinets come together has potential for excellent storage using any one of several kinds of corner organizers.

Lazy-Susans By far the most common is a lazy-susan turntable. Anything stored in the back of the cabinet can be brought 'round to the front with a little twist of the wrist. But there are some disadvantages. Fitting round lazy susans into square cabinets means that there are dark corners where things that fall off the turntable can get lost. Fortunately, there are a couple of simple solutions to this problem. One is to make the cabinets round to fit the turntable. Another is to fit individual turntables on adjustable shelves — often called "super susan" cabinets. We like this solution better than round cabinets that tend to be flimsy (thick wood does not bend, so thin plys are used — these are usually not very strong.)

There are a lot of different kinds of lazy susan. Some attach to L-shaped cabinet doors so the doors rotate with the turntable. They tend to get jammed up more often than other styles and work best with inset doors. For overlay doors, free-standing units are the better choice. Free-standing turntables can be notched or beveled. The notched style fits L-shaped doors, and the beveled variety fits a 45-degree corner door (the preferred style — it provides more storage). Photo: Knape & Vogt Blind Corner A fully extended blind corner unit. The cost of this hardware with installation works out to about $100.00 per square foot of storage, making it by far the most expensive corner storage option.

Turntables are also made in a variety of materials. The least expensive is the common white PVC plastic product. Metal and wood units are considerably more expensive — especially stainless or hardwood finished to match your cabinets (a total waste of money). Actually, PVC is, in this instance, the better product. It is lightweight, tough, easy to clean, simple to adjust, and cheap. It is unquestionably ugly, but, so what! It's hidden behind your nice cabinet doors, so what does it matter?

Blind Corner Unit One of the most involved corner storage solutions is the blind corner organizer. This consists of two sets of pull-out shelves, one install behind the other. Pull out the drawer to get to shelves A. To get to halve B, rotate shelves A out of the way which simultaneously pulls the shelves B forward into the opening. To close the cabinet, the process is reversed. If this sounds like a lot of work just to get a box in the back of the cabinet, it is. Rube Goldberg would have loved this gadget. Plus, at $800.00 and more installed, these are the most expensive organizers that we know of.

Corner Drawers Our preferred corner storage solution is a simple stack of drawers.

OK, you give up a little storage space in trade for better accessibility. But, to our way of thinking, inaccessible storage is useless storage, so the trade-off is a no-brainer. Drawers provide nearly as much storage capacity as most lazy susans, and it's better organized.

Corner cabinet drawers. Corner drawers make the best use of corner cabinet space with full access to the drawers' contents. A number of drawer manufacturers have come up with clever v-front drawer units just for corners. Cute, but pricey — and unnecessary. Normal drawer stack units rotated 45 degrees work just as well, actually provide more storage, use the space in an otherwise useless corner more efficiently, and, most importantly, cost a lot less to make.



Stacked Pantry Storage
Wall cabinets or not, you almost certainly will need pantry storage somewhere in or adjacent to your kitchen. The ideal pantry is a 12-16" deep cabinet that easily displays all of the items in the pantry when the doors are wide open. This sort of pantry requires a lot of wall space, however, and most kitchens just don't have it.

The trick for kitchens that don't have the necessary space is to take the ideal 16"-deep cabinet, turn Photo: KraftMaid. Pullout Kitchen Pantry One model of tall kitchen pantry pullout by Kraftmaid. We usually make out own since we often use non-stock size pantry cabinets. it on end, and slide it into a 24"-30" deep pantry cabinet on pullout glides. This results in what is in effect a tall, narrow drawer containing a pantry unit with adjustable shelves. Everything stored in the unit is visible and handy when to drawer is open, and neatly hidden when the drawer is closed. Toe-kick drawer A drawer built into the toe kick provides additional storage possibilities.

Two or three of these will provide all the pantry storage an average kitchen needs, and in a very compact space. (For more tricks to desgining a pantry, see Pantry Perfection.)

Toe-Kick Storage
Cabinets typically sit about 4" off the floor in American kitchens. The area under the cabinets is the toe-kick space. The toe-kick is that indent under your cabinets where your feet go when you are standing at the cabinet. Without the toe-kick, you could not stand comfortably at the cabinet — so all base cabinets have them. In a modest kitchen with 15' of cabinets, there is about 25 square feet of toe-kick space that could be put to some good use. This is equivalent to having three extra drawer cabinets.

In a smaller kitchen where storage is at a premium, this space could be used for pull-out storage trays. A drawer box is built and fastened to the floor, then the cabinets are installed on top of the box. The front of the box is recessed 2-3" behind the face of the cabinets — creating a toe kick recess.

Special latches are often used called "touch-latches". When the trays are pushed lightly with your toe, they spring out far enough so you can pull them out the rest of the way. To close them, push them back with your foot until the latch is re-engaged. Naturally, since the front of the tray is being kicked around a lot, you would probably want to cover it in a mar-resistant material like a Formica® laminate.




Are you ready for your own dream kitchen?

We can build one just right for your budget. Contact usE-mail us at design@starcraftcustombuilders.com and let's get started.






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