New and Traditional Countertop Choices: Part 2
Return to New and Traditional Countertop Choices, Part 1 .

Laminates
By far he most common countertop material for the past half century, laminates, such as Formica®, out-sell and are the countertop material in more kitchens than all other countertop materials combined.

Photo: Nevamar. Laminates are by far the most popular countertop materials and have been for the past half century. Low price, durability and clean, attractive finish in hundreds of colors and patterns contribute to its appeal. Decorative laminate is made of paper layers and thermosetting phenolic resins. As many as 18 layers make up the final product. The bottom layers are Kraft paper, the same brown paper used in grocery bags, soaked in a phenolic resin. The top or "wear layer" is usually some form of melamine, another thermosetting resin. It is transparent to disclose the pattern printed on the second paper or "decorative" layer, also impregnated with melamine. Thermofused under great pressure and at high temperature, the resins bond the layers forming one solid sheet. Laminates: Pros & Cons
Pros: Relatively low cost, easy maintenance. Huge range of colors and patterns. Formerly it was nearly impossible to undermount a sink, but things have changed. Today undermount sinks are not only possible, but not actually very expensive.

Cons: Hot pans and knives can damage the surface which cannot be easily repaired. Persistent moisture may cause the material to delaminate over time.

Improvements in print technology, types of inks used, and finishes available are helping today's laminates improve. Advanced printing methods allow laminate, which is a flat surface, to give the perception of depth and dimension. Some lines of laminate can offer higher wear resistance than standard. Nevamar, for example, offers its award-winning "Armored Protection Surface" on all of its products — and a test kit you can buy for a nominal cost to see just how tough this surface is. Reasonably durable and very affordable, virtually stain proof and very heat resistant (but never put a hot pan on laminates), laminate comes in so many colors and styles from so many manufacturers that the hardest part of selecting a laminate material may be the seemingly infinite number of choices.

Sources of Supply: Laminates If the wear surface is penetrated or damaged by cutting or burning, the laminate is usually ruined. Most attempts to repair laminate are unsuccessful — the repair looks like a repair. By comparison, a repair to a composite countertop and many stone products is almost impossible to detect.

Laminates can reasonably be expected to last 10-15 years with ordinary care — not nearly as long as solid surfacing, stone or composites. But offsetting their relative lack of longevity is the price. Laminate is among the least expensive countertop materials -- so cheap, in fact, that regular replacement is actually affordable to refresh an aging kitchen or bathroom. We rank laminates as the best value in countertop materials for the budget minded. (See Kitchen Remodeling on the Cheap: Simple, Practical Ideas for Creating Your Dream Kitchen on a Budget.

Ceramic, Porcelain and Stone Tile
If any countertop material is available in even more colors and patterns that laminates, it must be tile. Tile for countertops has an impressive history going back to the ancient Greeks and Persians, even farther. To give you an idea of the durability of tile: Tile work in the Roman city of Pompeii was complex and intricate, survived one volcanic eruption and and has lasted for 2000 years. And by today's standards, it is not even very good tile.

Granite Tile Countertop This striking granite tile countertop has a clean, classic look, and is 1/3rd the price of a granite countertop. New grouts and improve sealants have greatly reduced grout staining and cracking problems. Caring for Grout
If your tile countertops is more than three years old, its grout is one of the old concrete-based blends. Unlike the new urethane grouts, these require a lot of maintenance. Here's how to keep them looking fresh for a long time. Care-Free Grout
If you want to avoid the grount staining problem altogether, order your tile with urethane grout. Unlike cement-based grounts, urethane grout is almost stain proof, remains flexible so it does not crack or split, and does not ever need to be sealed. The tile we are most familiar with is of two basic types, ceramic (or porcelain) and stone. But tile can be in almost any material. Glass tiles and metal tiles are getting a lot of attention today as alternatives to traditional tile materials in kitchens and bathrooms. (Read about metal tile at Metal Tile? You're Kidding, Right?)

Ceramic and porcelain tile start out as essentially the same basic material, clay, and both are "fired". (Firing is merely a process of heating clay in a kiln to a very high temperature.) High quality tile, whether called porcelain or ceramic, is fired longer at a higher temperature so it is harder, denser and more impervious to water than "soft" tiles.

Whether a high-end ceramic product is called porcelain or ceramic seems to be pretty much up to its manufacturer. There are no generally accepted standards that distinguish the two. But there are some rules of thumb. To learn what these are look at Porcelain or Ceramic: What is the difference?.

A glazed tile has been surface coated on the top side with glass which bonds to the clay when the materials are fired. Both ceramic and porcelain tiles may be glazed or unglazed.

Not every tile is suitable for use as a countertop. Soft, thin tiles designed to use on walls are not good countertop material. Hard tiles rated for use on floors are more than adequate. Stone and unglazed tiles, however, must be sealed, and the sealant must be renewed every year or so. Glazed tiles are already permanently sealed with glass so this regular maintenance is not required. But the grout lines must be resealed periodically even in glazed tile.

Grout and tile sealant is nothing more than a special coating containing a high percentage of silicon. It is usually applied with a brush or sponge and wiped off with a soft cloth. Nothing to it, really.

Tile: Pros & Cons
Pros: Comes in nearly an infinite variety of colors and styles. Can be as inexpensive as laminates. Resists heat, and cannot be cut, any damaged tile can be replaced and the repair is invisible.

Cons: Can be scratched, but only by the truly determined. Grout can be stained and may be hard to keep clean. However, narrow grout lines and new "stain proof" grouts minimize if not eliminate this problem. Must be installed by a professional or very skilled do-it-yourselfer. Natural stone tile has all of the drawbacks of natural stone countertops (except the hefty price). Grout is a problem for a lot of people who otherwise think tile would make a beautiful surface for countertops. Everyone has heard the stories: grout cracks, falls out, stains, gets dirty and harbors harmful bacteria. All of this was more true years ago. Modern urethane grouts is flexible, very stain-resistant, will last nearly as long as your tile and, best of all, does not need to be sealed. Of course, you have to specify urethane, otherwise your tile installer will probably use the older, cement-based, formulation.

It is possible to lay stone without grout. The edges are butted together (a process called "close setting") and sealed when the stone is sealed. Fired tiles, however, must be grouted - even if the grout line is a very narrow 1/16" or so. The difference is that stone is cut on a saw so each tile is exactly the same size. Fired tiles shrink when they are cured. Today the shrinkage is more controlled so that modern fired tiles are very close to being the same size - but not exactly. So they cannot be close set like stone.

The cost of tile ranges so widely that it is both the least expensive and most expensive countertop material. Some specialized imported tiles cost hundreds of dollars per square foot. Yet you can buy perfectly acceptable tile on sale from time to time for $1.50 s/f. So it is possible for a customer on a budget to use tile -- just stay away from anything made in France or Italy.

Concrete & Concrete Composites
Concrete countertops are the very latest thing among the California and New York glitterati. In fact, a number of well-known kitchen designers are predicting that concrete may soon eclipse granite as the up-scale countertop of choice. It may seem odd to use a pedestrian material like concrete in a kitchen or bathroom — unless the bathroom Concrete Countertops are the Latest Thing Yes, it really is concrete. Concrete countertops may be cast in place in one piece or in a workshop and installed in sections. This stunning example by Absolute Concrete Works. is attached to a gym — but in fact concrete countertops are warm and attractive with an almost unlimited choice of finishes and colors. Concrete: Pros & Cons
Pros: Can be formed into just about any shape. Has a unique feel. Can be polished to a high shine or left dull. Increasing number of colors and finishes.
Cons: Pricey, very easily stained, high maintenance. Can have a definite "industrial" look about. Can chip and crack, although these defects can be invisibly repaired in many instances.

Concrete countertops may be formed in a studio, then installed much like natural stone slabs. This process, however, leaves joints that must be filled. Poured-in-place concrete countertops are one seamless unit. The disadvantage of this method is that it is a huge mess. The forms for the concrete are assembled on top of already installed cabinets that have to be protected. Often the floor is also finished, another protection problem. Once the forms are in place, then the concrete is usually carried in by the bucket-full - many buckets-full in fact. Then it must be carefully tinted, finished and allowed to cure for several days while being kept damp so it does not crack. Obviously all this is quite the chore — and one best left to the pros. Photo: Lithistone Composite conrete countertop Not your grandpa's concrete. A concrete composite countertop by Lithistone.

There are additional drawbacks. Concrete countertops are expensive, they are so heavy that the cabinets (and sometimes the floors) under them may have to specially reinforced, and they typically develop hairline cracks due the natural shrinkage of curing concrete. Some people like the look of age that the cracks suggest. Others hate the idea. Concrete, like natural stone and unglazed tile, has to be sealed and resealed periodically. It is, in fact, fairly high maintenance if it is to be kept looking "new". Many owners, however, like the "character" of concrete that is showing a little use. Sources of Supply: Concrete Countertops
Product Web Site Telephone
Aggregate Filler
Lithistone www.lithistone.net (970) 799.0181
Stndecrete® www.syndecrete.com Not Provided
Glass Fillers
IceStone® www.icestone.biz 718-624-4900
Trinity Glass Products www.trinityglassproducts.com (425) 486-3417
Vetrazzo www.vetrazzo.com (510) 234-5550
Vitrastone www.vitrastone.com (970) 385-4044
Paper Fillers
Squak Mountain Stone www.tmi-online.com (425) 486-3417


Within the last five or so years, regional and nationwide sources of concrete-based products have emerged. Unlike locally-made countertops, these are composite products — a combination of some very special concrete blends used as a binder, and a filler material.

Most manufacturers of concrete composites seem reluctant to call the binder concrete. It's a "natural mineral binder" or "fiberous cement" or "eco-ceramic cement". Its actually concrete, but not "just concrete". It's concrete on steroids. Every manufacturer has its own top-secret formulations designed to be more flexible, up to 10 times stronger. None that we have looked at showed any evidence of shrink- or stress-cracking, so those problems appears to have been eliminated.

Filler materials may be stone, shells, paper, glass, metal or just about anything else, often mixed together in interesting ways. The goal of the filler is three-fold. It adds "green" content to the material by using post-consumer waste. Filler reduces the serious weight of concrete to something approaching reasonable. Finally, they dramatically change the look of the resulting material. IceStone, for example, looks like very expensive terrazzo because of its high glass content. The greenness of the product is suspect, however, since concrete itself is not the most green product. It requires so much embodied energy to manufacture. But many of these products qualify for U.S. Green Building Council LEED credits, so at least someone thinks they are fairly eco-friendly.

Each manufacturer has a proprietary concrete recipe which is a closely guarded secret. Concrete does not naturally bind to glass — glass is too slick. So the concrete must be especially formulated to bind to glass if the finished product is not to be seriously weakened. Other fillers, paper and stone aggregate are less of a problem. The material is cast into large slabs and left to cure, then polished to expose the filler and refine the surface. A high polish, very unlike anything seen on ordinary concrete, is very possible with these products.

Just like solid surfacing or engineered composite countertops, composite concrete is typically shipped in large slabs to be fitted and installed by a local countertop installer with the special tools, training and experience to cut shape and polish the material. Some manufacturers, however, will cast the countertop to size, eliminating local cutting and shaping, and most manufacturers will also make sinks and other accessories to match. Some allow the buyer to select his own filler and finish.

Concrete, whether cast-in-place or pre-cast, is one of th most expensive countertop materials. Its cost easily rivals that of very high-end granite.

Stainless Steel
For the quintessential industrial look, nothing surpasses stainless steel countertops. This is almost the perfect countertop material.

Photo: Independent, Inc. Stainless Steel Countertop Stainless steel is almost the perfect functional countertop material. Newer designs are starting to move away from the institutional look. It is impervious to moisture; seamless so there are no cracks for dirt and bacteria to hide in; very resistant to staining and discoloration; unbreakable (in fact, it is nearly indestructible). It cannot be burned or cut. It takes a serious effort to dent the thick sheet of stainless 340 used in most installations. It never fades, molds, or rusts. So why doesn't everyone use it?

Stainless Steel: Pros & Cons
Pros: Water-proof, seamless, resists staining, nearly indestructible. Cannot be burned. Never fades or rusts. Any scratches can be buffed out.

Cons: Very industrial look, very costly. Suitable only for ultra-modern and Euro-style decor. Many people (especially those with less-than-fond memories of the high school cafeteria) think it's just plain ugly. It is the epitome of the institutional food service look. In fact, the companies that install stainless in your home are also likely to be the ones that did your school, the local Arby's and the state prison. And it is very expensive.

But if you like the super-industrial, high-tech look, it is a material that merits your consideration. One thing for certain, there is little likelihood there will be another kitchen like it in your neighborhood.

Glass
Photo: ThinkGlass Glass Countertop Thick, aqua glass over a texture stainless sheet produces this distinctive countertop. Glass is one Glass: Pros & Cons
Pros: Water-proof, seamless, non-staining, very sanitary. Cannot be burned, very scratch resistant.

Cons: Costly — about the same as mid-range granite. May not be suited for every style. Can chip or break for which there is no solution except to replace the glass. of those materials that you usually do not think of when contemplating a new countertop. But it is becoming more popular as a countertop surface in both baths and kitchens. Glass offers an incredible range of design possibilities. It can be cast to create many different shapes, colors and textures. It can also be combined with other design elements for added effect, such as glass over metal or tile. Lighting under the counter can be used to create visual drama.

Sources of Supply: Glass Countertops Glass is non-porous and extremely sanitary which makes it an excellent countertop and kitchen backsplash choice. It requires very little maintenance and is exceptionally easy to clean. In the kitchen it can endure hot pans without cracking or scorching. The thick, usually tempered, glass used to create countertops is exceptionally chip and break resistant. But if it does chip or crack, the only solution is to replace it. There is no effective repair, so be careful with those cast-iron pots.

Wood
Despite the frequent warnings about the sanitation issues of wood countertops for food preparation, serious cooks often prefer butcher block countertops. But, as it turns out, the danger of wood countertops may have been exagerated somewhat. Recent studies, such as the one by Deal Oliver of teh University of California, Davis, have found that while Photo: Wendy Harris Wood Countertop American Black Walnut forms this dramatic island countertop built for Wendy Harris by Dan Meyers of Meyers Woodworks in Olympia, Washington. bacteria tend to accumulate in both wood and plastic surfaces, wood has natural antimocrobial qualities that keeps bacteria in check, while man-made materials do not. As a result, wood actually harbors much less live bacterial than most other kitchen materials.

Wood: Pros & Cons
Pros: "Warmest" of all materials. Most minor damage can be easily repaired. Huge variety of woods, stains and finishes can complement any decor.

Cons: Not suitable around water. Vulnerable to heat damage and scratches. Improperly installed, expansion cracking may occur. Must be maintained regularly and refinished every few years. Considerred by some to be the least sanitary of countertop materials, and some localities do not allow it for health reasons. As with other materials, there have been great improvements in the past few years. For one thing, the variety of woods available is no longer limited to just the traditional rock maple. Mahogany, ash, cherry, oak, mesquite, walnut, beech and alder are all available as butcher block from a variety of manufacturers, and any one of these can be manufactured locally by a well-equipped cabinet shop.

For kitchen use, the usual finish is a mineral oil approved for food preparation which is called USP-grade mineral oil. It has to be renewed about every month. Some wood countertop owners mix beeswax with food-safe mineral oil. Simply shave about 1/2 teaspoon beeswax into a microwave safe dish with a cupful of mineral oil; microwave on high for about 45 seconds. Apply to the countertop while still warm. Once the finish has had some time to dry it can be buffed to a shine wit a dry, soft cloth. Beeswax helps to keep moisture, bacteria, and other contaminants from getting into the wood surface, gives the countertop a nice smooth feel to the touch, and leaves a subtle, honey-like, fragrance. An alternative to mineral oil is coconut butter.

Modern technology has improved on mineral oil a bit, providing a more durable coating that need be renewed less often, sometimes as little as every three months or so. Many major coatings (paint) manufacturers sell an oil preparation just for wood cutting surfaces. For example, Butcher Block Oil and Finish from Rustoleum. Specialty kitchen suppliers also sell cutting block or butcher block oils. One we like is John Boos' Butcher Block Mystery Oil — a formulation of mineral an linseed oils — actually, not much of a mystery. Still, no matter what the finish, acids, such as vinegar, and standing water can stain a wood countertop, but with resanding and reoiling, the countertop can be renewed over and over.





Are you ready for your own dream kitchen?

We can build one just right for your style and budget. Contact usE-mail us at design@starcraftcustombuilders.com and let's get started.






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