Quartz and Engineered Stone

This is a relatively new product made by using a process that bonds stone particles with a thermosetting resin for greater durability and a more "stone-like" appearance and feel than solid surfacing like Corian®. In fact, it is difficult to tell that engineered stone is not "real" stone. The most common resin used is some form of phenolic resin.

Engineered Stone: Pros & Cons

Pros: Sinks can be undermounted. Very hard, very scratch resistant, very hard to stain. No sealing or on-going maintenance required. "Real" stone look.

Cons: Very pricey. Some homeowners find it a little too uniform in appearance. Photo: Silestone An engineered stone countertop is almost indistinguishable from natural stone. The flagship engineered stone product is probably Silestone® made by fusing quartz particles into a durable countertop surface that is harder than pure granite with both the look and feel of natural stone. Quartz is the forth hardest natural mineral, after diamonds, topaz and sapphire. The binding material makes the material more flexible than natural stone - thus less likely to chip, crack or break. But it can be damaged by high heat - so never put a hot pan on engineered stone. Sources of Supply: Engineered Stone:

• Caesarstone, www.caesarstoneus.com, (800) 666-8201;
• Silestone, www.silestoneusa.com, (800) 291-1311;
• Zodiaq by Dupont, www.zodiaq.com, (877) 229-3935.

The phenolic resins used as a binder in engineered stone act as a permanent seal. The countertops never need resealing.

Often more expensive than natural stones, engineered stone products are not for those on a budget. The good news, though, is that prices seem to be continuously coming down as the market becomes more competitive.

Laminates

By far he most common countertop material for the past half century, laminates, such as Formica®, out-sell all other countertop materials combined.

Photo: Formica Corporation. Laminates are by far the most popular countertop materials. A great variety of edge treatment are available, but the most often asked for is still the tried-and-true square edge. Decorative laminate is made of paper layers and thermosetting resins. As many as 18 layers make up the final product. The bottom layers are Kraft paper, the same brown paper used in grocery bags, soaked in a phenolic resin. The top or "wear layer" is usually some form of melamine, another thermosetting resin. It is transparent to disclose the pattern printed on the second paper or "decorative" layer, also impregnated with melamine. Thermofused under great pressure and at high temperature, the resins bond the layers forming one solid sheet.

Laminates: Pros & Cons

Pros: Relatively low cost, easy maintenance. Huge range of colors and patterns.

Cons: Hot pans and knives can damage the surface which cannot be easily repaired. Persistent moisture may cause the material to delaminate over time. Improvements in print technology, types of inks used, and finishes available are helping today's laminates improve. Advanced printing methods allow laminate, which is a flat surface, to give the perception of depth and dimension. Some lines of laminate can offer higher wear resistance than standard. Nevamar, for example, offers its award-winning "Armored Protection Surface" on all of its products — and a test kit you can buy for a nominal cost to see just how tough this surface is. Reasonably durable and very affordable, virtually stain proof and very heat resistant (but never put a hot pan on laminates), laminate comes in so many colors and styles from so many manufacturers that the hardest part of selecting a laminate material may be the seemingly infinite number of choices.

Sources of Supply: Laminates

• Formica Brand Laminate, www.formica.com, (800) 367-6422
• Nevamar, www.nevamar.com, (800) 845-4790;
• Pionite Decorative Surfaces, www.pionite.com, (800) 746-6483;
• Wilsonart Laminatewww.wilsonart.com, (800) 433-3222 If the wear surface is penetrated or damaged by cutting or burning, the laminate is usually ruined. Most attempts to repair laminate are unsuccessful — the repair looks like a repair. By comparison, a repair to a composite countertop and many stone products is almost impossible to detect.

Laminates can reasonably be expected to last about 10 years with ordinary care — not nearly as long as solid surfacing, store or composites. But offsetting their relative lack of longevity is the price. Laminate is among the least expensive countertop materials -- so cheap, in fact, that regular replacement is actually affordable to refresh an aging kitchen or bathroom.

Paper Composites

Paper composite countertops are durable, but come in limited patterns and colors. Often praised as an environmentally friendly material, it is no more so than laminates or other composites, and considerably less friendly than natural stones and most tiles. A relative newcomer to the counte top world, paper composites are often heralded as an environmentally friendly countertop product. We don't know why. Essentially they are made like virtually all other composite materials. A base material, in this case colored paper, is bonded together with a phenolic resin to form a tough durable surface. Stone composites are made the same way, but with quartz or another stone as the base material rather than paper. Phenolic resin, commonly used to make laminates, composites, and solid surfacing materials is a combination of phenol and formaldehyde — both relatively toxic chemicals. Finished products can "out-gas" formaldehyde for some time after manufacture, although modern manufacturing techniques now minimize out-gassing.

The composite uses at least some post-consumer paper, but most of the paper used is made from wood pulp just like any ordinary paper product. Certainly stone composites and laminates are at least as "green", and natural stones much greener than paper composites. In our opinion the "environmentally friendly" label is undeserved.

Sources of Supply: Paper Composites

• PaperStone, www.kliptech.com, (360) 538-9815;
• Richlite, www.richlite.com, (888) 383-5533 Putting environmental issues aside, however, the product is a good countertop material. It is dense and heavy, weighing about as much as natural granite. It can scratch, but since the color goes all the way through the material, it takes a very serious marring to show any damage. Variations in the base paper often result slight color variations and a "mottled" appearance, especially in lighter colors. There are no patterns available, all of the products have solid coloring. Seams will show, so careful design is needed to minimize or disguise seams.

The material is tough enough to use in chemical laboratories, and strong enough to be used as skating rink floors, but it will wear and can stain. Homeowners who prefer these countertops admire products like soapstone and concrete that show a patina of age. Over time and with use, the countertop will develop a seasoned appearance. It will appear softer and deeper in tone, with more luster in the areas of heavier use.

Ceramic, Porcelain and Stone Tile

If any countertop material is available in even more colors and patterns that laminates, it must be tile. Tile for countertops has an impressive history going back to the ancient Greeks and Persians, even farther. To give you an idea of the durability of tile: Tile work in the Roman city of Pompeii was complex and intricate, survived one volcanic eruption and and has lasted for 2000 years. And by today's standards, it is not even very good tile.

This countertop is edged with matching bullnose tiles for a clean, classic look. New grouts and improve sealants have greatly reduced grout staining and cracking problems. The tile we are most familiar with is of two basic types, ceramic (or porcelain) and stone. But tile can be in almost any material. Glass tiles and metal tiles are getting a lot of attention today as alternatives to traditional tile materials in kitchens and bathrooms. (Read about metal tile at Metal Tile? You're Kidding, Right?)

Tile: Pros & Cons

Pros: Comes in nearly an infinite variety of colors and styles. Can be as inexpensive as laminates. Resists heat, and cannot be cut.

Cons: Can be scratched, but only by the truly determined. Grout can be stained and may be hard to keep clean. However, narrow grout lines and new "stain proof" grouts minimize if not eliminate this problem. Must be installed by a professional or very skilled do-it-yourselfer. Natural stone tile has all of the drawbacks of natural stone countertops (except the hefty price). Ceramic and porcelain tile start out as essentially the same basic material, clay, and both are "fired". (Firing is merely a process of heating clay in a kiln to a very high temperature.) High quality tile, whether called porcelain or ceramic, is fired longer at a higher temperature so it is harder, denser and more impervious to water than "soft" tiles.

Whether a high-end ceramic product is called porcelain or ceramic seems to be pretty much up to its manufacturer. There are no generally accepted standards that distinguish the two. But there are some rules of thumb. To learn what these are look at Porcelain or Ceramic: What is the difference?.

A glazed tile has been surface coated on the top side with glass which bonds to the clay when the materials are fired. Both ceramic and porcelain tiles may be glazed or unglazed.

Remember Plastic Tile?

If you do, you probably also remember Sputnik and Hula Hoops and Cadillacs with tail fins.

Plastic tile was all the rage back in the 1950's when plastics of all kinds were new and considered the "miracle space-age material".

We see a lot of it, especially in vintage bathrooms. Usually it's the color we call "Awful Pink". Thankfully it is very easy to remove. In fact, most of the time it is already falling off the wall.

We don't think it's made anymore. Thank heaven! Not every tile is suitable for use as a countertop. Soft, thin tiles designed to use on walls are not good countertop material. Hard tiles rated for use on floors are more than adequate. Stone and unglazed tiles, however, must be sealed, and the sealant must be renewed every year or so. Glazed tiles are already permanently sealed with glass so this regular maintenance is not required. But the grout lines must be resealed periodically even in glazed tile.

Caring for Grout

Never use chlorine bleach, muriatic acid, vinegar, or other caustic chemicals unless the label indicates that it is safe for grout. Most of these chemicals deteriorate and etch the grout, making it more of a dirt magnet. Some mild acid cleaners formulated specifically for tile and grout may be used. After thorough cleaning (with a brush) and rinsing, seal the grout with a deep penetrating sealer.

For badly stained grout, there is an alternative. After washing grout with an approved tile acid cleaner and rinsing it thoroughly, use a toothbrush to apply a grout colorant. It can be mixed to match almost any colored or white grout, and most of these products will seal as they color the grout. Grout and tile sealant is nothing more than a special coating containing a high percentage of silicon. It is usually applied with a brush or sponge and wiped off with a soft cloth. Nothing to it, really.

Grout is a problem for a lot of people who otherwise think tile would make a beautiful surface for countertops. Everyone has heard the stories: grout cracks, falls out, stains, gets dirty and harbors harmful bacteria. All of this was more true years ago. Modern latex-modified grouts better resist cracking and modern sealants keep dirt, stain and bugs out better than ever.

It is possible to lay stone without grout. The edges are butted together (a process called "close setting") and sealed when the stone is sealed. Fired tiles, however, must be grouted - even if the grout line is a very narrow 1/16" or so. The difference is that stone is cut on a saw so each tile is exactly the same size. Fired tiles shrink when they are cured. Today the shrinkage is more controlled so that modern fired tiles are very close to being the same size - but not exactly. So they cannot be close set like stone.

The cost of tile ranges so widely that it is both the least expensive and most expensive countertop material. Some specialized imported tiles cost hundreds of dollars per square foot. Yet you can buy perfectly acceptable tile on sale from time to time for $1.50 s/f. So it is possible for a customer on a budget to use tile -- just stay away from anything made in France or Italy.

Concrete:

Concrete countertops are the very latest thing among the California and New York glitterati. In fact, a number of well-known kitchen designers are predicting that concrete may soon eclipse granite as the up-scale countertop of choice. It may seem odd to use a pedestrian material like concrete in a kitchen or bathroom — unless the bathroom is attached to a gym — but in fact concrete countertops are warm and attractive with an almost unlimited choice of finishes and colors.

Yes, it really is concrete. Concrete countertops may be cast in place in one piece or in a workshop and installed in sections. This stunning example by Absolute Concrete Works. The concrete used is not what your sidewalks are made of. These special mixtures containing additives such as latex fibers, silica fume pozzolan and acrylic are denser and up to 10 times stronger than regular concrete.

Concrete: Pros & Cons

Pros: Can be formed into just about any shape. Has a unique feel. Can be polished to a high shine or left dull. Increasing number of colors and finishes.

Cons: Pricey, easily stained, high maintenance. Can have a definite "industrial" look about. Can chip and crack, although these defects can be invisibly repaired in many instances. Concrete countertops may be formed in a studio, then installed much like natural stone slabs. This process, however, leaves joints that must be filled. Poured-in-place concrete countertops are one seamless unit. The disadvantage of this method is that it is a huge mess. The forms for the concrete are assembled on top of already installed cabinets that have to be protected. Often the floor is also finished, another protection problem. Once the forms are in place, then the concrete is usually carried in by the bucket-full - many buckets-full in fact. Then it must be carefully tinted, finished and allowed to cure for several days while being kept damp so it does not crack. Obviously all this is quite the chore — and one best left to the pros.

There are additional drawbacks. Concrete countertops are expensive, they are so heavy that the cabinets (and sometimes the floors) under them may have to specially reinforced, and they typically develop hairline cracks due the natural shrinkage of curing concrete. Some people like the look of age that the cracks suggest. Others hate the idea. Concrete, like natural stone and unglazed tile, has to be sealed and resealed periodically. It is, in fact, fairly high maintenance if it is to be kept looking "new". Many owners, however, like the "character" of concrete that is showing a little use.

Stainless Steel

For the quintessential industrial look, nothing surpasses stainless steel countertops. This is almost the perfect countertop material.

Stainless steel is almost the perfect functional countertop material It is impervious to moisture; seamless so there are no cracks for dirt and bacteria to hide in; very resistant to staining and discoloration; unbreakable (in fact, it is nearly indestructible). It cannot be burned or cut. It takes a serious effort to dent the thick sheet of stainless 340 used in most installations. It never fades, molds, or rusts. So why doesn't everyone use it?

Stainless Steel: Pros & Cons

Pros: Water-proof, seamless, resists staining, nearly indestructible. Cannot be burned. Never fades or rusts. Any scratches can be buffed out.

Cons: Very industrial look, very costly. Suitable only for ultra-modern and Euro-style decors. Many people (especially those with less-than-fond memories of the high school cafeteria) think it's just plain ugly. It is the epitome of the institutional food service look. In fact, the companies that install stainless in your home are also likely to be the ones that did your school, the local Arby's and the state prison. And it is very expensive.

But if you like the super-industrial, high-tech look, it is a material that merits your consideration. One thing for certain, there is little likelihood there will be another kitchen like it in your neighborhood.

Glass

Photo Courtesy ThinkGlass Thick, aqua glass over a texture stainless sheet produces this distinctive countertop. Glass is one of those materials that you usually do not think of when contemplating a new countertop. But it is becoming more Glass: Pros & Cons

Pros: Water-proof, seamless, non-staining, very sanitary. Cannot be burned, very scratch resistant.

Cons: Costly — about the same as mid-range granite. May not be suited for every style. Can chip or break for which there is no solution except to replace the glass. popular as a countertop surface in both baths and kitchens. Glass offers an incredible range of design possibilities. It can be cast to create many different shapes, colors and textures. It can also be combined with other design elements for added effect, such as glass over metal or tile. Lighting under the counter can be used to create visual drama. Sources of Supply: Glass Countertops:

• Thinkglass, www.thinkglass.com;
• Curvet, www.curvet.com.

Glass is non-porous and extremely sanitary which makes it an excellent countertop and kitchen backsplash choice. It requires very little maintenance and is exceptionally easy to clean. In the kitchen it can endure hot pans without cracking or scorching. The thick, usually tempered, glass used to create countertops is exceptionally chip and break resistant. But if it does chip or crack, the only solution is to replace it. There is no effective repair, so be careful with those cast-iron pots.

Wood

Ash is one of the woods now commonly used to make dramatic and unique countertops. Despite the frequent warnings about the sanitation issues of wood countertops for food preparation, serious cooks often prefer butcher block countertops. As with other materials, there have been great improvements in the past few years. For one thing, the variety of woods available is no longer limited to just rock maple. Mahogany, ash, cherry, oak, mesquite, walnut, beech and alder are all available as butcher block from a variety of manufacturers.

Wood: Pros & Cons

Pros: "Warmest" of all materials. Most minor damage can be easily repaired. Huge variety of woods, stains and finishes can complement any decor.

Cons: Not suitable around water. Vulnerable to heat damage and scratches. Improperly installed, expansion cracking may occur. Must be maintained regularly and refinished every few years. The least sanitary of countertop materials. Some localities do not allow it for health reasons. For kitchen use, the preferred finish is a mineral oil approved for food preparation. It has to be renewed about every month. Acids, such as vinegar, and standing water can stain a wood countertop, but with resanding and reoiling, the countertop can be renewed over and over.

Wood is best used on a portion of the countertop where food is prepared, or as the top of a center island, while the rest of the kitchen is surfaced with a more care-free countertop material.

End

Now that you know about countertops, learn to distinguish good from poor cabinets at Cabinet Basics, and the advantages and disadvantages of the flooring choices for kitchens at Flooring Options for Kitchens and Baths.

For more good reading, check out our complete articles index.