An Inset door sits inside the face frame, flush with the front edge of the cabinet frame so the entire face frame is exposed to view. Virtually all cabinet doors built before 1930 were of the inset type. The space between the edge of the door and the cabinet is typically 3/16" to allow for wood expansion and enough clearance for opening and closing the door without it dragging on the cabinet edge.
Any cabinet built in the 1940s and '50s before the large factories took over the market probably had a lipped door. The lipped door has a grove (what cabinetmakers call a "rabbit") cut all the way around the door on the back edge. This cut allows part of the door to sit back into the cabinet and leaves the remaining part resting on the cabinet or face frame.
A full overlay door completely covers and conceals the cabinet case. It is, with partial overlay doors, a common door type for European or frameless cabinets. Full overlay doors typically have less than 1/8" of space (cabinetmakers call this the "reveal") between them. These doors almost always use concealed hinges.
Any overlay less than a full overlay is a partial overlay. Most common are half and three-quarter overlays which, as you might expect, conceal half and three-fourths respectively of the cabinet frame.
| Tier 1: Custom |
Custom cabinetry with 1/2" plywood box, 3/4" hardwood face frame, dovetailed 5/8" hardwood drawer sides, hardwood frame and panel doors, full-extension undermount drawer slides, custom finish. | $1,200-1,400 per linear foot |
| Tier 2: Semi-Stock |
Semi-Stock cabinetry with 1/2" plywood box, 3/4" hardwood face frame, dovetailed 1/2" hardwood drawer sides, hardwood frame and panel doors, adjustable cup hinges, epoxy-coated side-mounted 3/4 extension slides, stain with crystallized clear top coat. | $450-540 per linear foot |
| Tier 3: Stock |
Stock factory cabinets with 1/2" particleboard sides, 3/4" hardwood face frame; stapled 3/4" particleboard drawer box, hardwood frame and panel doors, euro cup hinges, epoxy-coated side-mounted 3/4 extension slides, stain with clear coat. | $360-432 per linear foot. |
| Tier 4: RTA |
Ready to assemble (RTA) cabinetry with 3/4" melamine veneered particleboard sides, no face frame, metal drawer sides, melamine front and bottom; particleboard doors with melamine veneer, adjustable cup hinges, integral 3/4 extension drawer slides, plastic finish. | $70 per linear foot not including assembly or installation. |
| Where do StarCraft Custom Cabinets fit into this scheme? Well, you decide. | ||
| StarCraft Cabinets: | Custom and Semi-Custom cabinetry with 1/2"-3/4" plywood box, 3/4"-7/8" hardwood face frame, dovetailed 3/4" maple or oak drawer sides, hardwood frame and panel doors in more than 1000 styles, full-extension undermount soft-close/sure-close drawer slides, stain with crystallized clear top coat. | $320-560 per linear foot |
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| Part & Description | Part & Description | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A |
Back Panel Only the inside of the back panel is ever seen, but it is structurally important because it gives the cabinet rigidity and resistance to racking (twisting out of square). | G |
Face Frame Applies only to framed cabinets. European style cabinets are built without a separate face frame (See"Cabinet Case Basics" below). | ||
| B |
Bottom Panel This is the floor of the cabinet. In cabinets with bottom drawers or slide-outs it is never seen, but it is very important to the structural integrity of the cabinet. A weak bottom panel allows the cabinet to twist out of square during handling and installation. | H |
Drawer Box This is the drawer proper. Because it is constantly being opened and closed, it needs to be tough with strong joints. The strong drawer joints are dovetail, dowel-pegged and slip joints. All of these will stand up to year after year of use. | ||
| C |
Corner Gusset (or Block) Corner gussets add rigidity to the cabinet, preventing it from racking out of square, and are used to anchor the countertop to base cabinets. You will find them in base cabinets, more rarely in wall and full-height cabinets that have a solid top and bottom panel. | I |
Drawer Front The drawer “front” you see on a well-made cabinet is actually a false front that is attached to the drawer with screws. This permits the part you see to be adjusted independently of the drawer itself so it aligns correctly with the other elements of the cabinet. In less expensive drawers, the front of the drawer box (see above) is also the front you see. There is no separate false front. | ||
| D |
Drawer Guide The guides are roller assemblies that attach the drawer to the case and permit the drawer to open and close easily. | J |
Cabinet Door This is the primary decorative element of the cabinets. Most of what you can actually see of a cabinet is its doors. They determine the style of the cabinet. | ||
| E |
End Panel (or Side) The end panels support the face frame and top of the cabinet. They are primary structural elements and need to be very strong. On most cabinets they are 3/4" thick, and even on the least expensive cabinets are seldom less than 5/8" thick. This is one area where cabinetmakers rarely skimp. | K |
Roll-out, Pull-out, Slide-out In many styles and shapes, a pull-out tray is a drawer without a drawer front. It is intended to be concealed behind a door. But since it is a drawer, it needs to be as strong and as durable as a drawer, and is generally made the same way as a drawer. | ||
| F | Shelf If a cabinet is not fitted with a bank of drawers, it will have at least one shelf. Most are adjustable. | L | Hinge Most of today's hinges are the hidden European type. More information in the main article. | ||
Chemically, it's a resin produced from urea and formaldehyde that results in a low temperature plastic that is very durable and stain resistant.
manufacturers are reaching new heights in color and decoration.
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