New New Saving Household Water

Only 4% of the water used in the United States is treated drinking water. Still, that's about 15 billion gallons of water each day passing through water treatment facilities or about 400 gallons per day for each household.

Very little of it is actually consumed as food or drink — less than 10 gallons on average per household per day. Most of what we drink is not tap water but prepared beverages bought at the grocery — including bottled water. Some household water, about 30%, is used in landscaping and gardening. But most is used for bathing, dishwashing and household cleaning.

Treated water is expensive because a lot of energy is needed to treat it and move it from its source to the treatment plan, then from the plant to your home. In the U.S. the electricity used to treat and pump drinking water would power more than 5 million homes for an entire year. Put another way, if you are in the habit of letting the hot water run while rinsing dishes, in five minutes you will have used enough energy to power a 60 watt light bulb for 24 hours. In ten minutes you will have cancelled out all the energy you saved by replacing your old incandescent bulbs with the new energy-efficient compact fluorescent fixtures.

We use more water per person than any other people in the world. And in many places we are running out of it. Much of Nebraska relies on fossil water deposited millions of years ago in the Ogallala Aquifer. This water is largely not replaceable. A shallow layer of caliche that is practically impermeable lies over much of the aquifer preventing ground water from reaching it. Only 1 gallon is replaced for every 100 gallons used. So, once used, fossil water is gone forever. And it will be all gone in your lifetime — about 25 years. The EPA estimates that 39 states, including Nebraska, will experience regional or statewide water shortages by 2013. If you think the oil shortage is scary, wait for the water shortage.

We don't actually drink enough treated water to matter. So saving water is a matter of controlling how much water we use in cleaning and washing. Using water saving devices, we can easily reduce an average $500 annual water and sewer bill to $330 or less. It's worth doing for that reason alone.

Average indoor water use has been calculated fixture by fixture by the American Water Works Association. The toilet is the big offender. About 26% of our household water is literally flushed down the toilet. Washing clothes uses 22%, showering 17% and 14% is lost through leaks, primarily leaking faucets and toilets. Bathing takes just 2%, so if you prefer a bath to a shower, you are already saving a lot of water.


Water Use by Fixture Type

Source: American Water Works Association
Fixture% of Use
Toilet26%
Clothes Washer22%
Faucets17%
Shower16%
Leaks14%
Bath2%
Dishwasher1%
All Other2%

Fix Those Leaks

An astonishing amount of household water — water you paid for in cold, hard cash — just leaks away.

Some leaks are easy to detect. If you can hear your toilet running, it's leaking. If you shut off a faucet, but it still drips, you have a leaking washer or valve. A two drop per minute drip from a single faucet can translate into more than 4,000 gallons per year of wasted water. Fix or replace this faucet with a washerless, ceramic disk faucet for about a half century of flawless, leak proof, performance (For more information on faucet technology see Sources of Supply: Faucets).

Some leaks, however, are invisible. Toilets are particular culprits. Toilets, even new toilets, can have silent leaks caused by an improperly seating plunger ball or flap valve. These leaks are difficult to detect since there is usually no visible or audible sign of water flowing down the drain. If the toilet plunger ball or flap valve does not seat properly water slowly flows from the toilet tank into the bowl and into the drain. This type of leak can be detected by placing a small amount of food coloring into the toilet tank. Wait for about ten minutes without flushing the toilet, check to see if the food coloring appears in the toilet bowl. If it does then the toilet has a sneaky leak.

Another source of sneaky leaks is your house's service line from the water main. These leaks can be extremely difficult to detect but there are some telltale signs which may indicate that you have a leak in your service line. You should be be on the alert for:

If you think you may have a leak in your service line, find and turn off the main shut off valve within your home. Place your ear on the main water line coming into your home. If you have a hissing or gurgling noise you almost certainly have a leak. To be absolutely sure, though, call a plumber to run a leak test. Water leaks in the service line on the house side of the meter are your responsibility in most localities. In Lincoln, however, you are also responsible for the water line from the meter to the water main connection (which is called the "tap"). The fix involves digging up the old line and replacing it. It is not going to be easy nor cheap.

Government Regulation

Whether you like it or not, your government is going to help you save on water.

The National Energy Policy Act of 1992 mandated low-flow toilets, faucets and showers. You cannot legally buy or install the older non-restrictive fixtures in the United States, so any time you update any faucet, toilet or showerhead you are automatically saving water. Older toilets used as much as 7 gallons per flush. The new ones cannot use more that 1.6 gallons by law. For shower heads, the federal flow limit is 2.5 gallons per minute (GPM). Many states and localities mandate even less — 1.7 GPM or less. Showers are a major user of water. Between 1950 and 2000 the average household increased it water use 300%, much if not most of this was due to the gradual shift from bathing to showering as a national practice.

Water-Saving Fixtures

Here are some specific water-saving fixtures. Keep these in mind when shopping for fixtures.

High-Efficiency Toilets

While 1.6 gallons is the maximum flow allowed per flush, there are more efficient fixtures. A toilet that uses 1.28 gallons or less per flush is considered "high efficiency". Look for Maximum Performance (MaP) test compliance or EPA WaterSense rated fixtures.

Low-Flow Faucets

To give you the feel of a full flow of water, but keep flow as little as 1.5 GPM, manufacturers have developed faucet and showerhead aerators. These add a measured quantity of air to the water flow that makes it feel "wetter". These are a very low cost fix. Look for low flow aeration in showerheads and most faucets. Faucets specifically designed to fill things, like pot-filler faucets, will not usually have them. But sink faucets should always incorporate low-flow technology.

Low Flow Showerheads

Low Flow Shower Head Adjustable low-flow shower head reduces flow to 1.85 GPM in low setting. A showerhead that allows a maximum of 2 GPM is considered low flow. A lot of showerheads are advertised as "low flow" at 2.5 GPM. This may have been low-flow 15 yeears ago, but not now. Many communities now restrict flow to 1.7 GPM or less and you can expect future regulations to require 1.5 GPM or less. To get a jump on the future, look at the flow information on the box. It it is 1.85 GPM or less, it is a good idea to give thought to buying it. Some showerheads feature adjustable flows: very low flow for showering and a higher 2.5 GPM flow for rinsing.

Where Does All the Other water Go?

If treated water makes up on 4% of all the water used in the U.S., where does the other 96% go?

Agriculture: Crop irrigation, livestock, and fish farming use 142 billion gallons a day. As much as half of this is lost to evaporation, wind, poor design and over watering.

Power Generation: Electricity generation uses 136 billion gallons of fresh water every day to cool power plants.

Industry and Mining: Water used in manufacturing and mining accounts for 20 billion gallons used each day. It also accounts for the majority of pollution in our streams and rivers.

Selecting Bathroom Fixtures: Showers and Bathtubs
There are three basic types of showers: showers built over separate tubs, integrated one-piece tub-shower units and stand-alone showers. All these types are prefabricated by a number of manufacturers, and all can be custom-built by a qualified local craftsman.

Types of Showers
Shower enclosure Sliding glass shower enclosure from Kohler. Tub with Shower
Almost all tubs installed today include a shower unit over the tub. A curtain or shower door closes off the tub when the shower is in use. The shower doors are actually called "shower enclosures" a term that refers to doors that take the place of a shower curtain. The doors may slide or one door open outward. The other three sides of the shower — called the "tub surround" — may be a fiberglass or vinyl unit, but more often are tile. There are some new materials for surrounds on the market, however, that are worth a look-see. Solid surfacing materials such as Corian® have found a place in bathrooms as tub/shower surrounds. So has solid stone, although the skills required to cut, shape and install solid stone panels are still not commonly found.

Integrated Tub/Shower Unit
These units, typically made of acrylic or fiberglass (see below), consist of a tub and surround as either a one-piece unit for new construction or a four-piece system for remodeling. Openings are provided in for the showerhead, faucet and drain. These may include integrated doors, an integrated curtain rod, or just a slot into which a rod may be inserted.

Stand-Alone Showers
A shower that does not include a tub is a stand-alone shower. These can be prefabricated, usually of acrylic, fiberglass, stainless steel or enameled steel, or built on site. Custom built units are typically faced with ceramic, porcelain or stone tile.

What to Look For
Frameless shower Frameless glass shower is almost invisible and ADA accessible. Door Swing: If you are considering a unit with a hinged door that opens out, make sure there is
Say “Adios” to Water Spots on Shower Doors
Wondering how to get rid of water spots on your glass shower enclosures? Well, Here's how.
     • Apply undiluted red wine vinegar directly to the glass with a soft cloth.

     • If that doesn’t work, spray on a 50/50 combination of denatured alcohol and water.

     • If some spotting still remains, wipe lacquer thinner on with a soft cloth. Use rubber gloves and make sure the window is open and vent fan on. Don't try this on an acrylic shower door — you might melt it.


It’s far better to prevent spotting and staining in the first place. Here's how.
     • There are many daily shower sprays like Shower Shine on the market that force water to bead up and flow away — taking scum and stains down the drain. If you don't like the greasy after-effect of these chemical sprays, try Method's organic Ylang-Ylang daily shower spray.

     • You can also wipe away excess water with a squeegee after every shower.

     • For long term protection treat your shower enclosure with a surface protectorant such as Simply Brilliant, available from most shower-glass providers. The chemical coating will cause water to bead up on glass like it does on a waterproof jacket. If it wears off over time, you can reapply a reactivator yourself, eliminating spotting once and for all.
enough space in the room for doors to swing. Doors should swing freely without interfering with a task area where another bathroom user may be standing. There are few things more annoying than being assaulted by a shower door while brushing one's teeth. Moreover, a hinged shower door should incorporate some mechanism to prevent water from dripping from the inside of the door onto the bathroom floor. Often this is a gutter built into the door frame that channels the water back into the shower. All hinged shower doors must swing out. Doors that swing in are prohibited in most localities by plumbing codes.

Size: Prefabricated shower units come in more-or-less standard sizes starting at 32" x 32". Custom-built showers may, of course, be of any size and shape that conforms to the minimum design standards for showers (see The Rules of Bathroom Design).

If considering a single-piece shower unit, measure halls and doorways so you know the unit will fit through. Generally a three- or four-piece model designed for remodeling needs will be more suitable. If you are careful, always read the installation instructions, and have square and plumb framing to attach it to, you can probably install one of these yourself. But for the few dollars it costs, the peace of mind might be worth having a plumber do it for you and guarantee it against leaks.

Safety: Acrylic or tempered glass is required by building and safety codes for use in shower doors of any kind. Tempered glass is better. It is more scratch resistant and easier to keep clean. A shower should have a slip-resistant floor. Look for slip-resistance in any prefabricated unit, and if building a custom shower, use only rated slip-resistant tile. Also make certain any prefabricated unit includes grab bars, and install at least two grab bars in any custom unit — four is better.

Bathtubs
Fancy Bathtub Bathtubs are the probably the most durable household fixture. Many stay in use for over 50 years — some are now over 100 years old. Nearly every home has at least one, most more than one. The tub may be supplemented by a stand-alone shower or whirlpool, but at least one basic bathtub is virtually required in every American home.

No longer just a place to wash, tubs are becoming one of the luxury spots of the average home — a place to relax and soak away the cares of the world in deep comfort.

Bathtub Materials
Tubs not only come in a multitude of sizes, colors and styles, but in a variety of materials as well. The choice and combination depends upon individual needs and tastes, as well as architectural limitations. Bathtubs are made from porcelain on steel, acrylic, fiberglass, cast iron, and cultured marble, and some more exotic materials such as stone, copper, aluminum, stainless steel and wood (which we will not get into here).

Porcelain on Steel
Porcelain on steel is the most common type of tub sold. It consists of one-piece thin stamped steel shell coated with a heat-fused porcelain enamel. Porcelain enamel is a vitreous coating bonded to metal by fusion at a very high temperature. This process forms a smooth attractive finish that is resistant to acid, corrosion, or abrasion, is flameproof, colorfast, and sanitary. It also makes these units reasonably priced and relatively lightweight.

Acrylic
Heat-formed acrylic is vacuum-molded from sheets of colored acrylic and reinforced with fiberglass to make it resistant to chips and cracks. It is economical and lightweight, and it can be repaired if damaged. Acrylic is chemically inert, Clawfoot The classic 5' freestanding "slipper" clawfoot tub. This are availabed as refurbished antiques, in new enameled cast iron and light weight enamel. Refurbished tubs are often the best bargain, and the most authentic. immune to almost all chemicals, and requires only a mild liquid, non-abrasive cleaner to keep it looking like new. It has a natural luster, and a non-porous finish that is easy to clean, but it's subject to scratching and can discolor over time — especially in strong sunlight.

Fiberglass
Gel-coated fiberglass is generally the least expensive material for bathtubs. It is lightweight, easy to install, and can be molded into a variety of shapes. Hefty layers of fiberglass and foam insulation form a base for a smooth gel coat surface. While the finish won't last as long as other materials (it shows wear after 10 to 15 years), and can scratch or fade, it is also easily repaired and resurfaced. Many combination tub-and-shower units are made of fiberglass.

Cast Iron
Enamel-coated cast iron is the most durable bathtub material, and usually the most expensive. The word "cast" refers to the method used to produce the tub and has nothing to do, as many people think, with the quality of the iron used. It's just plain ol' iron.

Alcove bathtub The basic 3-wall alcove bathtub, by far the most common tub style. Available in cast iron, steel, acrylic and fiberglass. Steel and cast iron tubs will last more than a lifetime. The others somewhat less, but still for a very long time. The casting method involves pouring the iron in a molten or liquid form into a mold that defines the shape of the finished product. The thickness of cast iron makes its surface resistant to acids, and provides outstanding protection against chipping, scratches and dents. It's very impact resistant and displays the richest, most highly polished finish of all bath materials.

These tubs are extremely heavy, and because of the weight, cast iron isn't the best choice for large tubs unless the bathroom floor is specially reinforced.

Cultured Marble
Cultured marble is a man-made product, manufactured from crushed limestone and polyester resin, with a gel coated finish. The gel coat is specially formulated to produce a tough, durable, transparent surface resistant to normal wear. The process produces a unique range of colors, patterns, and veining. Cultured Marble is stronger and less brittle than true marble and much less likely to stain.

Bathtub Styles
Three-Wall Alcove: The most popular tub type today is still the basic, 5-ft. alcove model designed to be built into a three-walled inset in the bathroom. This is the tub you probably already own. Millions of these units are sold every year. There are also longer and shorter built-ins, and special units that attach to two rather than three walls. There is very little style difference between any of these models, and almost no difference in quality if the tub is made by a major brand.

Freestanding: The most familiar of these bathtubs is the clawfoot tub. There are also pedestal and other legged models. The pedestal bath is a tub on a stand or pedestal. The legged models have some kind of leg holding them off the floor. The clawfoot is just one, albeit the most popular, leg model.

Sunken/Drop-In: Drop-in bathtub Drop-in platform-mounted tub from Kohler. These are tubs that mount in a hole in the floor or more commonly in a raised platform in much the same way that sinks are installed in countertops. True sunken tubs are somewhat awkward to get in and out of, so most such tubs are installed in a platform. Either way, the tub requires extra carpentry and tile work, which adds significantly to its final cost.

Corner: A corner tub can be a built-in or a drop-in. They are usually installed without integrated showers under windows where they provide a handy ledge for plants, decorative items, soaps, oils, etc. Corner tubs are available in standard 5' Japanese Soaking Tub Traditional Japanese Ofuro — one of the variety of deep soaking tubs. and 6' lengths. These tend to use a lot of floor space, however, so they may not suitable for most small bathrooms. For small rooms there are smaller tubs, but tall people might not find them comfortable.

Soaking Tub: These tubs are generally installed adjacent to a shower. The shower is used for actual washing. The tubs are for relaxing after the shower. They are deep tubs, often inset into the floor or a low deck, deep enough to allow a person in a sitting position to be immersed up to his neck. Although traditionally made of wood, tile, or, more rarely, metal; soaking tubs are now commonly made of polypropylene reinforced with fiberglass, or acrylic.

Whirlpool Tub: This is a bathtub fitted with jets which propel a current of warm water in a swirling motion. It may be of any of the types describe above, but is most often either an alcove or drop-in tub.

What to Look For
One of the most hotly debated subjects in bathroom remodeling is what is the "best" bathtub. The cast iron purists scoff at the modernists who prefer acrylic and fiberglass and think cast-iron is horse-and-buggy technology. In the end, however, a decision about the right tub for you is an intensely personal decision. Here are some thoughts.

Cost: Cast iron is generally the most expensive followed by acrylics, steel and fiberglass.

Comfort and Ergonomics: Metal tubs can be cold to the touch when first entered. Acrylic and fiberglass are not. A standard 60" (5') tub may be too short for any one over 6' tall. A longer tub would be better if the space for it can be found. Tubs are being designed in every conceivable size and shape, of a variety of materials, and with a number of comfort features. The best way to choose one is to think about how it will be used, and then to go to a showroom and sit in a few models to find out what feels comfortable. (OK, you'll look stupid. But one must sacrifice a little dignity to get the perfect bathtub.)

Durability All modern tubs, except the very lowest quality, will give years and years of good service. Most will outlast you and your house, so there is no reason to buy the most durable tub when any reasonably durable unit will do. All tubs may develop problems. Steel can dent, acrylic and fiberglass can be cracked if hit hard enough. Cast iron can chip. Dents are tough to repair, but most chips and cracks can be repaired so the damage is virtually invisible and as strong as the original.

Size In the end, the decision may be based on the simple fact of how much room you have in your bathroom. If all you have is room for a standard alcove tub, then that's what you need to buy.

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