Steam Showers

As anyone who has ever been to a steam room can attest, steam may be the ultimate environment for complete relaxation. New products make the option of a steam bath right in the shower easy. At about the same price as a hot tub, steam showers are an affordable luxury for many homeowners.

Photo: Jacuzzi Steam shower Designed by Pininfarina for Jacuzzi, this upscale steam shower sells for about $27.000, before installation. Others can be had for $3,000 or less.

There are two basic approaches to steam showers. The first is to purchase a self-contained unit. This are almost always an acrylic unit carefully sealed to keep the steam in, a good idea unless you want to turn the whole house into a steam room — and deal with a lot of moisture-related problems. They also usually contain the steam generating unit which otherwise has to be hidden in a wall or under a cabinet.

Limited choices in styles and colors, however, do not fit every bathroom style. The other option, a custom steam shower, can match any decor. The key is to ensure that the shower door fits tightly enough to keep the steam contained. This almost always means a custom-fabricated door.

Then there is probably going to be some plumbing to run pipes from the steam generator to the steam cabin, and some electrical work to connect the controls. All in all, a custom-built steam shower will run about double the cost of the same sized self-contained unit.

Selecting Bathroom Fixtures: Showers and Bathtubs
Frameless shower Frameless glass shower is almost invisible and ADA accessible. There are three basic types of showers: showers built over separate tubs, integrated one-piece tub-shower units and stand-alone showers. All these types are prefabricated by a number of manufacturers, and all can be custom-built by a qualified local craftsman.

Types of Showers
Tub with Shower
Almost all tubs installed today include a shower unit over the tub. A curtain or shower door closes off the tub when the shower is in use. The shower doors are actually called "shower enclosures" a term that refers to doors that take the place of a shower curtain. The doors may slide or one door open outward. The other three sides of the shower — called the "tub surround" — may be a fiberglass or vinyl unit, but more often are tile. There are some new materials for surrounds on the market, however, that are worth a look-see. Solid surfacing materials such as Corian® have found a place in bathrooms as tub/shower surrounds. So has solid stone, although the skills required to cut, shape and install solid stone panels are still not commonly found.

Integrated Tub/Shower Unit
Shower enclosure Integrated fiberglass tub-shower unit. These units, typically made of acrylic or fiberglass (see below), consist of a tub and surround as either a one-piece unit for new construction or a four-piece system for remodeling. Openings are provided in for the showerhead, faucet and drain. These may include integrated doors, an integrated curtain rod, or just a slot into which a rod may be inserted.

Stand-Alone Showers
A shower that does not include a tub is a stand-alone shower. These can be prefabricated, usually of acrylic, fiberglass, stainless steel or enameled steel, or built on site. Custom built units are typically faced with ceramic, porcelain or stone tile.

What to Look For
Door Swing: If you are considering a unit with a hinged door that opens out, make sure there is enough space in the room for doors to swing. Doors should swing freely without interfering with a task area where another bathroom user may be standing. There are few things more annoying than being assaulted by a shower door while brushing one's teeth.
Say “Adios” to Water Spots on Shower Doors
Wondering how to get rid of water spots on your glass shower enclosures? Well, Here's how.
     • Apply undiluted red wine vinegar directly to the glass with a soft cloth.

     • If that doesn’t work, spray on a 50/50 combination of denatured alcohol and water.

     • If some spotting still remains, wipe lacquer thinner on with a soft cloth. Use rubber gloves and make sure the window is open and vent fan on. Don't try this on an acrylic shower door — you might melt it.

It’s far better to prevent spotting and staining in the first place. Here's how.
     • There are many daily shower sprays like Shower Shine on the market that force water to bead up and flow away — taking scum and stains down the drain. If you don't like the greasy after-effect of these chemical sprays, try Method's organic Ylang-Ylang daily shower spray.

     • You can also wipe away excess water with a squeegee after every shower.

     • For long term protection treat your shower enclosure with a surface protectorant such as Simply Brilliant, available from most shower-glass providers. The chemical coating will cause water to bead up on glass like it does on a waterproof jacket. If it wears off over time, you can reapply a reactivator yourself, eliminating spotting once and for all.


A hinged shower door should incorporate some mechanism to prevent water from dripping from the inside of the door onto the bathroom floor. Often this is a gutter built into the door frame that channels the water back into the shower. All hinged shower doors must swing out. Doors that swing in are prohibited in most localities by plumbing codes.

Size: Prefabricated shower units come in more-or-less standard sizes starting at 32" x 32". Custom-built showers may, of course, be of any size and shape that conforms to the minimum design standards for showers (see The Rules of Bathroom Design).

If considering a single-piece shower unit, measure halls and doorways so you know the unit will fit through. Generally a three- or four-piece model designed for remodeling needs will be more suitable. If you are careful, always read the installation instructions, and have square and plumb framing to attach it to, you can probably install one of these yourself. But for the few dollars it costs, the peace of mind might be worth having a plumber do it for you and guarantee it against leaks.

Safety: Acrylic or tempered glass is required by building and safety codes for use in shower doors of any kind. Tempered glass is better. It is more scratch resistant and easier to keep clean. A shower should have a slip-resistant floor. Look for slip-resistance in any prefabricated unit, and if building a custom shower, use only rated slip-resistant tile. Also make certain any prefabricated unit includes grab bars, and install at least two grab bars in any custom unit — four is better.

Bathtubs
Bathtubs are the probably the most durable household fixture. Many stay in use for over 50 years — some are now well over 100 years old. Nearly every home has at least one, most more than one. The tub may be supplemented by a stand-alone shower or whirlpool, but at least one basic bathtub is virtually required in every American home.

No longer just a place to wash, tubs are becoming one of the luxury spots of the average home — a place to relax and soak away the cares of the world in deep comfort.

Clawfoot The classic 5' freestanding clawfoot tub. This tub is available as a refurbished antique, in new enameled cast iron and light weight acrylic. Refurbished tubs are often the best bargain, and the most authentic. Bathtub Materials
Tubs not only come in a multitude of sizes, colors and styles, but in a variety of materials as well. The choice and combination depends upon individual needs and tastes, as well as architectural limitations. Bathtubs are made from porcelain on steel, acrylic, fiberglass, cast iron, and cultured marble, and some more exotic materials such as stone, copper, aluminum, stainless steel and wood (which we will not get into here).

Porcelain on Steel
Porcelain on steel is the most common type of tub sold. It consists of one-piece thin stamped steel shell coated with a heat-fused porcelain enamel. Porcelain enamel is a vitreous coating bonded to metal by fusion at a very high temperature. This process forms a smooth attractive finish that is resistant to acid, corrosion, or abrasion, is flameproof, colorfast, and sanitary. It also makes these units reasonably priced and relatively lightweight.

Acrylic
Heat-formed acrylic is vacuum-molded from sheets of colored acrylic and reinforced with fiberglass to make it resistant to chips and cracks. It is economical and lightweight, and it can be repaired if damaged. Acrylic is chemically inert, immune to almost all chemicals, and requires only a mild liquid, non-abrasive cleaner to keep it looking like new. It has a natural luster, and a non-porous finish that is easy to clean, but it's subject to scratching and can discolor over time — especially in strong sunlight.

Comparing Bathtub Materials
ProsConsAverage Cost
Fiberglass
  • Warm compared to steel or iron, easier on the posterior.
  • Lightweight. Easy to install.
  • Relatively inexpensive.
  • Wide range of sizes and styles.
  • Easy to repair if damaged.
  • Gel-coat finishes can fade over time and are not as durable as other finishes.
  • More flexible than iron or steel tubs and can crack if not properly installed. Installation is not a task for do-it-yourselfers.
$200-300
Acrylic
  • Warm compared to steel or iron, easier on the posterior.
  • Acrylic will not fade or discolor.
  • Lightweight. Easy to install.
  • Relatively inexpensive. Slightly more expensive than fiberglass.
  • Wide range of sizes and styles.
  • Easy to repair if damaged.
  • If not properly reinforced during manufacturing, can crack and split in normal use. Go with a well-recognized name brand to avoid this issue — or let your plumber pick the tub.
  • More flexible than iron or steel tubs and can crack if not properly installed. Installation is not a task for do-it-yourselfers.
$300-400
Steel
  • Porcelain enamel surface is very had and unlikely to be damaged by ordinary use.
  • Easy to clean.
  • Unlikely to fade or discolor even in very deep hues. Keeps its sheen for a long, long time, but eventually the accumulation of thousands of tiny scratches will dull the surface. Fortunately, it's fairly easy to polish the enamel to restore the like-new look.
  • Relatively inexpensive. Slightly more expensive than fiberglass, much less expensive than iron.
  • Heavier than acrylic or fiberglass, but not nearly an weighty as iron.
  • Steel tubs, especially in the economy lines, are flexible and may crack and fracture the extremely inflexible porcelain enamel surface — especially if not installed properly.
  • If the enamel surface is chipped, the tub will rust. Fortunately chips are easy to repair.
  • Not available in nearly as many sizes, colors and styles as acrylic or fiberglass tubs.
$350-500
Iron
  • Usually has a heavier coating of enamel than steel tubs.
  • Very durable. Many 200 year old tubs are still in use.
  • Easy to clean.
  • Unlikely to fade or discolor even in very deep hues. Keeps its sheen for a long, long time, but eventually the accumulation of thousands of tiny scratches will dull the surface. Fortunately, it's fairly easy to polish the enamel to restore the like-new look.
  • Very heavy. Installation will be more expensive simply because more labor is required just to get the tub into the bathroom and in position.
  • Limited sizes and shapes.
  • The most expensive of the standard tub materials.
$400-800, but tubs can run up to $4,000 and more.
Fiberglass
Gel-coated fiberglass is generally the least expensive material for bathtubs. It is lightweight, easy to install, and can be molded into a variety of shapes. Hefty layers of fiberglass and foam insulation form a base for a smooth gel coat surface. While the finish won't last as long as other materials (it shows wear after 10 to 15 years), and can scratch or fade, it is also easily repaired and resurfaced. Many combination tub-and-shower units are made of fiberglass.

Drop-in bathtub Drop-in platform-mounted tub from Kohler. Cast Iron
Enamel-coated cast iron is the most durable bathtub material, and usually the most expensive. The word "cast" refers to the method used to produce the tub and has nothing to do, as many people think, with the quality of the iron used. It's just plain ol' iron.

The casting method involves pouring the iron in a molten or liquid form into a mold that defines the shape of the finished product. The thickness of cast iron makes its surface resistant to acids, and provides outstanding protection against chipping, scratches and dents. It's very impact resistant and displays the richest, most highly polished finish of all bath materials.

These tubs are extremely heavy, and because of the weight, cast iron isn't the best choice for large tubs unless the bathroom floor is specially reinforced.

Cultured Marble
Cultured marble is a man-made product, manufactured from crushed limestone and polyester resin, with a gel coated finish. The gel coat is specially formulated to produce a tough, durable, transparent surface resistant to normal wear. The process produces a unique range of colors, patterns, and veining. Cultured Marble is stronger and less brittle than true marble and much less likely to stain.

Bathtub Styles
Three-Wall Alcove: The most popular tub type today is still the basic, 5-ft. alcove model designed to be built into a three-walled inset in the bathroom. This is the tub you probably already own. Millions of these units are sold every year. There are also longer and shorter built-ins, and special units that attach to two rather than three walls. There is very little style difference between any of these models, and almost no difference in quality if the tub is made by a major brand.

Freestanding: The most familiar of these bathtubs is the clawfoot tub. There are also pedestal and other legged models. The pedestal bath is a tub on a stand or pedestal. The legged models have some kind of leg holding them off the floor. The clawfoot is just one, albeit the most popular, leg model.

Alcove bathtub The basic 3-wall alcove bathtub, by far the most common tub style. Available in cast iron, steel, acrylic and fiberglass. Steel and cast iron tubs will last more than a lifetime. The others somewhat less, but still for a very long time. Sunken/Drop-In: These are tubs that mount in a hole in the floor or more commonly in a raised platform in much the same way that sinks are installed in countertops. True sunken tubs are somewhat awkward to get in and out of, so most such tubs are installed in a platform. Either way, the tub requires extra carpentry and tile work, which adds significantly to its final cost.

Corner: A corner tub can be a built-in or a drop-in. They are usually installed without integrated showers under windows where they provide a handy ledge for plants, decorative items, soaps, oils, etc. Corner tubs are available in standard 5' Japanese Soaking Tub Traditional Japanese Ofuro — one of the variety of deep soaking tubs. and 6' lengths. These tend to use a lot of floor space, however, so they may not suitable for most small bathrooms. For small rooms there are smaller tubs, but tall people might not find them comfortable.

Soaking Tub: These tubs are generally installed adjacent to a shower. The shower is used for actual washing. The tubs are for relaxing after the shower. They are deep tubs, often inset into the floor or a low deck, deep enough to allow a person in a sitting position to be immersed up to his neck. Although traditionally made of wood, tile, or, more rarely, metal; soaking tubs are now commonly made of polypropylene reinforced with fiberglass, or acrylic.

Whirlpool Tub: This is a bathtub fitted with jets which propel a current of warm water in a swirling motion. It may be of any of the types describe above, but is most often either an alcove or drop-in tub.

What to Look For
One of the most hotly debated subjects in bathroom remodeling is what is the "best" bathtub. The cast iron purists scoff at the modernists who prefer acrylic and fiberglass and think cast-iron is horse-and-buggy technology. In the end, however, a decision about the right tub for you is an intensely personal decision. Here are some thoughts.

Cost: Cast iron is generally the most expensive followed by steel, acrylics, and fiberglass.

Comfort and Ergonomics: Metal tubs can be cold to the touch when first entered. Acrylic and fiberglass are not. A standard 60" (5') tub may be too short for any one over 6' tall. A longer tub would be better if the space for it can be found. Tubs are being designed in every conceivable size and shape, of a variety of materials, and with a number of comfort features. The best way to choose one is to think about how it will be used, and then to go to a showroom and sit in a few models to find out what feels comfortable. (OK, you'll look stupid. But one must sacrifice a little dignity to get the perfect bathtub.)

Durability: All modern tubs, except the very lowest quality, will give years and years of good service. Most will outlast you and your house, so there is no reason to buy the most durable tub when any reasonably durable unit will do. All tubs may develop problems. Steel can dent, acrylic and fiberglass can be cracked if hit hard enough. Cast iron can chip. Dents are tough to repair, but most chips and cracks can be repaired so the damage is virtually invisible and as strong as the original.

Size: In the end, the decision may be based on the simple fact of how much room you have in your bathroom. If all you have is room for a standard alcove tub, then that's what you need to buy.

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